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| My dignified friend Alla with serious Viktor (Ilya's & Nastya's brother) |
My e-friend Keri is in Russia right now.
Her most recent post caught and expressed so amazingly the way I feel in Russia. Somehow it is as though when I am there I am living in the sacrament of the present moment. I admit it is probably an offshoot of simply traveling.... or related to the fact that all my travel there has been adoption-related and thus bound to have fired up and tuned my emotions and faculties. I am not sure, but it is feeling and experience that is so rich, I can't help wanting more of it.
When I am there, I find myself thinking. Evaluating. Wondering. And many of my thoughts have paralleled Keri's. She writes, "
Who am I to judge what is suffering? I know my own. But why did I think there was no joy inherent in these things? Just because this country wears a different face than I am used to. Just because there is hunger and ribs showing and dark puddles of water laced with coal dust on every corner....what makes me the judge of its meaning, its beauty?"
So often we think that "happiness" HAS to mean the happiness that WE are accustomed to, expect or strive for - lots of good food, a generous wardrobe, a big, well-heated, modern (or at least modernized) house, the proper appliances, "up-to-date" school systems, attractive neighborhoods, etc. But, in so many ways, I saw anew in Russia because I saw that some of the things that we presume to need to make up our "happiness" are simply scorned in Russia, and some of the things that bring happiness there are avoided in the US.
Life in Russia (for most people) is simpler. That can be seen as a good or a bad thing, depending on how you look at it, and what you see.
A facebook friend is doing some sort of challenge where she goes for a week (or is it month?) wearing only six main items of clothing. I think there are a lot of Russians who do this all the time! People look nice, perhaps even nicer than here (you don't see people on the street who merely threw on some exercise wear, for example), but the people I know, at least, don't have huge closets full of more clothing than one person needs.
Even high school kids in the US chafe and moan if they don't have their own car. And, truly, I can imagine that using public transportation - initially at least - seems far less easy and pleasant than having a car. But, for the first time in Russia I could see how all of this private ownership of vehicles overall does so much damage to the greater society. It diminishes neighborhood, wipes out the small markets, and creates so much separation between people! And no question, it fattens everyone up.
And then, there is that "Russian thing" - the difference in attitude that stands out so sharply to Americans. At best people seem brusque and business-like. When you are tummy-up and vulnerable, the way most of us feel when we go to adopt, it seems a lot more like actual "rudeness" or "meanness". It is startling and dismaying. And, it is ubiquitous - not just found among the "militzia" or the bureaucrats, but everywhere....in the shops, on the street, on public transportation, everywhere. But one day a light went on - and I suddenly saw the "hyper-authoritativeness" not as gratuitous nastiness, but as a reflection of these people's pride in their work. The lady at the grocery store check-out, the laundress, the woman sweeping the sidewalk - in Russia they are all capable of standing up tall and yelling at you in a stream of Russian at the drop of a hat. But, suddenly I thought - they are not just mean-spirited! They are communicating the value they see in their work - they are standing on the dignity inherent in their role! Those ladies came up with a formula for their management of dirty laundry and the return of the clean laundry. Who am I, who have not done it, to act as though I know better? Who am I to presume I know their work? Who am I to walk where the sweeper needs to sweep? Who am I to think everything "ought" to be done the way I am used to it being done?
Recently I walked into our big supermarket here in south Lansing and glanced down the line of checkers. To the last one, they looked downtrodden, miserable and completely lacking in self-esteem. But, then when one of them got a customer, I saw her splash a false smile onto her face and blare a "cheery" greeting. But, she clearly takes no pride in her work; she doesn't see herself or what she does as having value or dignity. How sad is that? And how unlike the girl doing the same job in Ivanovo (to begin with, she's thoughtfully provided with a stool) but in addition, she is
in charge! If we want the groceries we treat her with respect! I liked it; she snapped at me when I didn't give her the right coins, but when I treated her with respect, she helped me and was very gracious....we connected - and we connected in a true way, not in a volley of false and meaningless greetings.
Our false smiles and insincere greetings are only
customary. They are what we are used to. Russians seems to be used to something quite different, and to my mind something more rough but wholesome. Famously, one family court judge in our region is said to have told an adoptive parent, "Wipe that stupid American grin off your face!" I can't help but be on the judge's side. Why couldn't that parent have sensed the seriousness of the occasion and the sober attitude of everyone around them, and behaved accordingly?
In any random photo of a group of Russians and Americans you can easily spot who is who. The Russians simply look at the camera, their faces reflecting the gravity and decorum with which they hope to be remembered in future years - the Americans slap a happy grin on their faces. But are they happy, necessarily? Nope. They just think they are supposed to be.
Keri writes about a kind Christian lady selling flowers, and how blessed they felt after their encounter with her. It is true, that in Russia when someone has been kind to you - well, it sometimes flows over you like some beautiful, enveloping warmth. One hardly likes to admit that kindness shines more brightly in a place where it isn't so habitual, but perhaps that is what it is. Simply the contrast.
Whatever it is, in Russia my eyes are open!